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OTHER INGREDIENTS,
CHEMICALS AND MYTHS
ALBUMIN
MYTH: The chief
ingredient in artificial face lifts. It is being touted as a wrinkle treatment. FACT: ... The last time a serious case
concerning consumer claims came up was in the 1960's.
Both of these products were temporary wrinkle
removers. The formulas contained a bovine serum albumin that, when dried,
formed a film over wrinkles thus making wrinkles less obvious .
(Brumberg).
BENTONITE MYTH: This is a naturally occurring mineral used in facial masks. It differs
from true clay, kaolin, in that when mixed with liquid it forms a gel. It can
have sharp edges which scratch the skin. Most bentonites can be drying to the
skin (Hampton).
FACT: Bentonite is used in formulations and masks. It forms films which are
gas impermeable, effectively
trapping toxins and CO, in the skin which needs to vent and escape, suffocating the skin by shutting out the vitally
needed oxygen.
BIOTIN (Vitamin H) MYTH:
An exotic ingredient promoted as being necessary and beneficial for skin and
hair care.
FACT: A deficiency of this vitamin has been associated with greasy scalps
and baldness in rats and other experimental animals. Fur-bearing animals,
however, have a very different hair growth from
human beings. Biotin deficiency in man is extremely rare. Biotin is considered
a worthless additive in
cosmetic products (Chase).
The
molecular size of Biotin is too large to penetrate the skin.
COLLAGEN MYTH:
Some companies imply that collagen can support the skin's own collagen network.
Others claim it can be absorbed to moisturize
skin. FACT: The collagen in
creams and lotions acts like any protein ingredient in that it merely provides
a coating on the skin's surface (Chase).
The collagen molecule cannot penetrate your
skin because it is much too large to be absorbed by the epidermis (Brumberg).
...Collagen,
elastin, or other proteins and amino acids cannot get into the skin through
topical application. The
molecules of these substances are simply too large to penetrate your skin (Novick).
Cosmetics
manufacturers have heralded it as a new wonder ingredient, but according
to medical experts, it cannot
affect the skin's own collagen when applied topically (Winter). it suffocates the skin trapping toxins and
keeping out oxygen
ELASTIN (Not cross-linked Elastin)
MYTH: Another ingredient promoted as being beneficial for skin and hair
care.
FACT: Elastin is included in some skin care products, but nowhere near as
much as collagen. It too cannot be absorbed by the epidermis (Brumberg).
In a cosmetic product, they cannot restore
tone to skin. When used in such products as moisturizers,
they act like all other commercial proteins – by forming a film that holds
moisture (Chase).
GLYCERIN
MYTH:
Promoted as being a beneficial humectant.
FACT:
This is a clear, syrupy liquid made by chemically combining water and fat. The
water splits the fat into smaller components – glycerol and fatty acids. It
improves the spreading qualities of creams and lotions and prevents them from
losing water through evaporation.
Glycerin,
however, has a tendency to draw water out of the skin and so can make dry
skin dryer (Chase).
A
solvent, humectant and emollient in many cosmetics, it absorbs moisture from
the air and therefore helps keep moisture in creams and other products, even if
the consumer leaves the cap off
the container (Winter). SEE HUMECTANTS.
Unless
the humidity of the air is over 65%, glycerin will pull the moisture out of the
skin, drying you from the inside out.
HUMECTANT MYTH:
Ingredients which draw moisture to and aid in moisturizing skin. FACT: Most moisturizers contain
humectants that act as water attractors, they actually pull moisture out of
your skin (Valmy).
The problem with humectants, including
propylene glycol and glycerin is that although they are most effective when you
are in areas with high humidity, if you are going to be in an
extremely low humidity
atmosphere, such as in an airplane or even a dry room, they can actually take moisture from your
skin. Here's why: Humectants are on the search for moisture that can be absorbed from the environment. If
the environment is so drying that there
is no moisture to be had, they will get it from the next best source – your
skin. When this happens, the ingredient, which is supposed to help your skin
retain moisture, instead does the
opposite (Brumberg).
A
substance used to preserve the moisture content of materials, especially in
hand creams and lotions
(Winter). SEE GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL.
These
are natural or synthetic compounds that are used to prevent water loss and
drying of the
skin. They also form a smooth feel to cosmetic lotions. Some are safe, some
aren't.
HYPOALLERGENI
MYTH:
A product to which you are not allergic.
FACT:
Hypoallergenic means "less than" and the word hypoallergenic tells
the consumer that the manufacturer believes the product has
fewer allergens than other products. There are no federal
regulations defining allergens, nor are there any guidelines. So "hypoallergenic"
has little
meaning (Brumberg).
KAOLIN
MYTH:
A very beneficial fine natural clay originally from Mt. Kaolin in China, hence
the name.
FACT: Quite drying and may be dehydrating to the skin. It also may be
contaminated with impurities (Hampton). Used in formulations
and masks. Forms films which are gas impermeable. Effectively traps toxins and CO, in the skin
which need to vent and escape. Then suffocates the skin by shutting out the vitally needed
oxygen.
LANOLIN
MYTH:
A beneficial moisturizer.
FACT:
Advertisers have found that the words "contains Lanolin" help to sell
a product and have promoted
it as being able to "penetrate the skin better than other oils,"
although there is little scientific
proof of this. Lanolin has been found to be a common skin sensitizer causing
allergic
contact skin rashes (Winter). Lanolin usually contains pesticides used on sheep
and wool.
LAURAMIDE
DEA
A
partly natural, partly synthetic chemical used to build lather and thicken
various cosmetic products.
Also used in dishwashing detergents for its grease-cutting ability. Can be
drying to
the hair, cause skin and scalp itching and allergic reactions (Hampton).
LIPOSOMES
MYTH
:
Nanosphenes or Micellization - Ultimate anti-aging agent.
FACT:
Liposomes are one of the newest entries in the "Fountain of Youth"
arena. According to one recent theory, cellular aging involves
the edification of skin cell membranes. Liposomes, which
are tiny bags of fat and thymus gland extract suspended in a gel, are supposed
to merge
with your aging skin cells, revive them and add moisture to them. Current
scientific understanding
does not support the rigidification theory. The cell membranes of young and
old
persons are alike. As a result, it is likely that liposome-containing
moisturizers represent nothing
more than another expensive allure (Novick).
MINERAL
OIL
MYTH:
A beneficial moisturizer.
FACT:
An oil manufactured from crude oil. It is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons
separated from petroleum. Dr. T. G. Randolph, an
allergist, has found that this and many other cosmetic chemicals
cause petrochemical hypersensitivity. The allergic reactions can become quite serious
in time leading to arthritis, migraine, hyperkinesis, epilepsy and diabetes.
Taken internally,
mineral oil binds the fat soluble vitamins A, D and E and carries them
unabsorbed out
of the body, and although little mineral oil is able to penetrate the skin,
this tendency is so
dangerous that Adelle Davis in Let's Eat Right to Keep Fit says that she
"personally would be
afraid to use this oil even in baby oils, cold creams and other cosmetics"
(New York:
Harcourt,
Brace, Jovanovich, 1970, p. 46). The fact that mineral oil does not penetrate
the skin
well makes it inappropriate for use in an absorption base in a skin cream of
any kind. In
fact, mineral oil-containing cosmetics can produce symptoms similar to dry skin
by inhibiting
the natural moisturizing factor of your skin. Petrolatum, paraffin or paraffin
oil and
propylene
glycol are other common cosmetic forms of mineral oil. Toxic. Avoid them
(Hampton).
Has
tendency to dissolve the skin's own natural oil and thereby increase
dehydration.
Mineral
oils have been found to be probably the single greatest cause of breakouts in
women
who
use a new product (Chase). Serious carcinogens are commonly found in Mineral
Oil.
NATURAL
COSMETICS
MYTH:
No artificial ingredients. Pure or from nature.
FACT:
There is no legal definition for "natural" which is why you see it
everywhere. A chemist's
definition
of organic simply requires that the molecule contain carbon (Hampton).
In
cosmetic terminology, the term "natural" usually means anything the
manufacturer
wishes.
There are no legal boundaries for the term.
There
are no guidelines surrounding what can or cannot be inside a
"natural" product. Most
cosmetics
called "natural" still contain preservatives, coloring agents and all
the other things
you
can think of that sound very unnatural (Begoun).
pH
pH
stands for the power of the hydrogen atom. Skin and hair do not have a pH. A
scale
from
0 to 14 is used to measure acidity and alkalinity of solutions. pH 7.0 is
neutral. Acidity
increases
as the pH number decreases and alkalinity increases as the pH number
increases.
Usually the pH of a cosmetic will not change the natural pH of the hair or skin
because
the hair and skin contain keratin, fatty acids and other substances that adjust
the
pH
levels with which they come into contact. As long as a pH is not unusually high
or low
there
is no problem – pH wise – with a cosmetic. Naturally the high pH of cold wave
solutions
and hair straighteners can damage the hair and skin, but even this is rare
providing
a
proper conditioner or moisturizer is used after such pH alterations. There is
no such thing
as
a "pH balanced" product because a product's pH will drift during
shelf life and alter when
applied
to the hair and skin. A product's pH is not a danger to the body, but the
synthetic
chemicals
used in cosmetics – often to alter the pH to please the ones who fall for the
"pH
balanced"
story – are (Hampton).
PLACENTAL
EXTRACT
MYTH:
Promoted for reiuvenating and nourishing aging skin.
FACT:
Placental extracts are another big hype. In moisturizers, these ingredients
allegedly
supplement
the vitamin and hormone content. The manufacturers of these products take
advantage
of the belief that since the placenta nourishes the developing embryo, an
extract
of
it can nourish and rejuvenate aging skin. Placental extracts can do no such
thing
(Novick).
The
value of a cosmetic depends on its active ingredients and with cosmetics containing
"placental
extract" it is impossible to tell what you are getting (Chase).
Temporary
means temporary, but it's still nice, every now and then, to be able to get a
smoother
look. Some ingredients include sodium silicate, bovine serum albumin and
human
placental protein (Bromberg). Worst yet many may come from aborted fetuses or
might
not be properly sanitized.
PROPYLENE
GLYCOL
MYTH:
Being promoted as being a beneficial humectant.
FACT:
It is the most common moisture-carrying vehicle, other than water, in
cosmetics. It has
better
permeation through the skin than glycerin and is less expensive, although it
has been
linked
to more sensitivity reactions. Its use is being reduced and it is being
replaced by safer
glycols
(Winter).
A
moisturizer that has been shown to provoke acne eruptions (Chase).
See
HUMECTANTS.
ROYAL
BEE JELLY
MYTH:
Promoted to nourish and moisturize the skin.
FACT:
This substance is found in beehives. It is secreted from the digestive tubes of
worker bees.
The
male bees and the workers eat royal jelly for only a few days after they are
born, but the
queen
bee eats royal jelly all of her life. Because royal jelly is associated with
the health and
long
life of the queen bee, it was believed that this substance could have some
age-retarding
properties.
It does not. There has been extensive research done on the value of royal jelly
and
the scientific consensus is that it is worthless for humans. Anyone who claims
that it has
special
powers is a fraud (Chase).
Eggs,
milk, honey and royal bee jelly are other favorites of some moisturizer
manufacturers.
Without
question, eggs are nourishing for the embryo, milk nourishing and
life-sustaining for
infants,
and honey and royal bee jelly nectar for bees. When applied to the skin,
however,
they
do little for you, although they may give a moisturizer a smoother consistency
or a lush
look
(Novick).
Highly
touted as a magical ingredient in cosmetics to restore one's skin to
youthfulness. If
stored
for over 2 weeks, royal jelly loses its capacity to develop queen bees. Even
when
fresh,
there is no proven value in a cosmetic preparation (Winter).
SEAWEED
MYTH:
Promoted to nourish and moisturize the skin.
FACT:
This plant has gelatinous properties. It is the major ingredient of the thin,
clear masks
that peel off in one piece. These masks allow
the skin to build up a supply of water. Seaweed
is
also used in face creams and lotions where it gives body and substance to the
products,
not
to the skin (Chase).
SODIUM
CHLORIDE (Salt - NaCI)
Used
to increase the viscosity in some cosmetics. Can cause eye and skin irritation
if used
in
too high concentrations (Hampton). Its usually used to make a cheap, watery
consistency
product
look thick and rich instead.
SODIUM
LAURETH SULFATE (SLES)
Chemical
name: Sodium Lauryl "ether" Sulfate
An
ether chain is added to SLS. Called a premium agent in cleansers and shampoos.
In
reality
it is very inexpensive but thickens when salt is added in the formula and
produces high
levels
of foam to give the concentrated illusion it is thick, rich and expensive. Used
as a
wetting
agent in the textile industry. Irritating to scalp and may cause hair loss (Wright).
SEE
SODIUM
LAURYL SULFATE.
SODIUM
LAURYL SULFATE (SLS)
No
one making any claims about this one – and for good reason.
We
examined an anionic detergent, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, which is commonly found
in
soaps
and shampoos, that showed penetration into the eyes, as well as systemic
tissues
(brain,
heart, liver, etc.). SLS also showed long-term retention in tissues.
In
soaps and shampoos, there is an immediate concern relating to the penetration
of these
chemicals
into the eyes and other tissues. This is especially important in infants, where
considerable
growth is occurring, because a much greater uptake occurs by tissues of
younger
eyes and SLS changes the amounts of some proteins in cells from eye tissues.
Tissues
of young eyes may be more susceptible to alternation by SLS (Green).
Forms
nitrates, a possible carcinogen when used in shampoos and cleansers containing
nitrogen-based
ingredients. These nitrates can enter the blood stream in large numbers
from
shampooing, bubble baths, bath and shower gels and facial cleansers.
These
synthetic substances are used in shampoos for their detergent and foam-building
abilities.
They can cause eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to
dandruff
and
allergic reactions. They are frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics
with the
parenthetic
explanation "comes from coconut." Let's save the coconut from
defamation of
character
and NOT use products with sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.! (Hampton)
Dr.
David H. Fine, the chemist who uncovered NDELA contamination in cosmetics,
estimates
that a person would be applying 50 to 100 micrograms of nitrosamine to the skin
each
time he or she used a nitrosamine-contaminated cosmetic. By comparison, a
person
consuming
sodium nitrite-preserved bacon is exposed to less than 1 microgram of
nitrosamine
(Hampton).
TYROSINE
MYTH:
An amino acid which can help you attain a deep. dark tan.
FACT:
Some tanning accelerator lotions do contain Tyrosine. You can be sure they'll
advertise it
if
they do – an amino acid that's essential to melanization (darkening) of the
skin. But,
melanization
is an internal process and spreading lotion on the skin's surface does nothing
to
fuel it. Similar logic would have us trying to rub food through our pores to
satisfy hunger
(Matarasso).
Manufacturer's
claims for the efficacy of tan accelerators remain unproven; a recent,
independent
study of these products failed to demonstrate any augmentation of tanning.
Indeed
it is doubtful that sufficient amounts of tyrosine can penetrate to the level
of the skin
where
it could enhance melanin production (Novick).
AHA's
(Alpha Hydroxy Acids, i.e.: Glycolic, Lactic and others)
MYTH:
Exfoliates the skin to remove wrinkles and expose young skin.
FACT:
Removing the outer layer of the skin exposes the young skin to the harsh aging
and
damaging
environmental agents. Use of AHA's could make you age much faster. You could
look
better today but may not be such a pretty sight in 10 years. Your outer layer
of skin is
your
first and most important line of defense. Everything should be done to make it
healthy
and
keep it – NOT LOSE IT. The FDA reported their deep concern with exfoliating the
stratum
corneum and the aging and health risks associated with this potentially
dangerous
procedure.
(May 1994)
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Begoin,
Paula Blue Eyeshadow Should Still Be Legal, Beginning Press, 1988
8rumberg,
Elaine Take Care of Your Skin, Harper & Row Publishers, Inc. 1989
Chase,
Deborah The New Medically-Based No-Nonsense Beauty Book, Henry Holt and Co.,
1989
Friend,
Tim "USA Today," 4-10-90
Green,
Dr. Keith Detergent Penetration Into Young and Adult Eyes Department of
Opthamology,
Medical College of GA, Augusta, GA.
Hampton,
Aubrey Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients Organica Press
Metarasso,
Dr. Seth L. "Faking lt" – Muscle & Fitness, November, 1990
Novick,
Dr. Nelson Lee Super Skin, Clarkston, N. Potter, Inc., Publishers, 1988
Valmy,
Christine 8 Vons Ulrich, Elise "Mid-Air Skin Care" – Entrepreneurial
Woman,
July/August 1990
Winter,
Ruth A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Crown Publishers, Inc.
1989
Wright,
Camille S. Shampoo Report, Images Intemational, Inc., 1989
Avoid Skin Care Cosmetics; Save
Your Money and Save Your Face
Linda Miller Fashion
Editor
Save your money and save your face. That's
Tom Mower's philosophy on skin care. "If you would use nothing but soap
and water on your skin, and put your money in the bank rather than buy
cosmetics, you not only would be more youthful looking, you'd be
wealthier," he said. "I've
never seen a skin care line that, in my opinion, would not make you age faster than if you would not use it,"
Mower said. That's a bold statement, considering that Mower is a research
chemist and president and founder of NEWAYS International', a company that
manufactures skin care and personal care products.
"What makes most products undesirable
and ineffective is their ingredients, specifically sodium laureth sulfate,
propylene glycol and kaolin," "Sodium laureth sulfate or sodium
lauryl sulfate is a common ingredient in shampoos," he said. "It's
inexpensive and a small amount gives a high level of foam. In reality,"
Mower said, "it's an ingredient that can inhibit hair growth, contribute
to hair loss and could cause cataracts if it gets into the eyes."
"Propylene glycol, found in most moisturizers, is industrial anti-freeze
.Mower said. "Your skin runs on water, not anti-freeze." He said
propylene glycol can penetrate into the skin and cause liver abnormalities and
kidney damage according to Material Safety Data Sheets.
"Bentonite or kaolin, an ingredient used
in many makeup foundations, is the same stuff used to fight fires," he
said. "The very foundation you put on ... is suffocating your face."
Mower said he doesn't use any of those ingredients in his products. "The
skin is a living, breathing organ that should be enhanced rather than
inhibited," he said. Unfortunately, consumers are at the mercy of cosmetic
companies. Ingredients may be listed on the package, but who knows what they
do? Even "natural' and hypoallergenic' are misused terms," Mower
said. "Poison ivy is natural. Just because a product is natural doesn't
mean it's good," he said. "If you put your faith in cosmetics and
skin care and the companies and their products, you're getting what you're
paying for – slick advertising and packaging,"he said. "Generally,
the cap on the bottle of most skin care products costs more than the
ingredients that are in the product," he said.
As an example, he cites an $87 bottle of
firming cream that contains less than 25 cents worth of ingredients. "So
what did you pay for? You paid for that full-page ad, that beautiful box and
the beautiful bottle." Mower said cosmetic companies take advantage of
consumers who strive to look good, to take care of themselves.
"Ironically, they're making their skin age faster ,and they're paying to
do it," he said. "Now that's my opinion." Mower has become a
crusader for products with integrity. That's why he established his company
four years ago in Salem, Utah. That's why he constantly "researches the
research," refines and improves ingredients that are superior and then develops
a new product or adds it to an existing product to improve it. "More than
$8 billion was spent on researching health and skin care products in the U.S.
last year," he said. "Modern testing is proving time and time again
that many ingredients used in skin care products aren't good for the body or
the skin," he said.
For products
without harmful ingredients
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